Part 1

Lowestoft to Cuxhaven

At the end of April 2007, Annabel and I, accompanied by friend Nick Methold, sailed up the East Coast of the UK from Southwold to Lowestoft. This was the start of our journey to Denmark. The weather was fair, but the wind and sea conspired to make it a rough and not particularly pleasant trip. This was just an introduction to what was ahead.

There was brilliant sunshine in Lowestoft as we readied the boat and waited for the full compliment of crew: in addition to myself and NIck, Peter Green, a friend of Nick’s had kindly agreed to join us. I had also obtained the services of Bill Coates of Professional Yacht Deliveries to help us out. Annabel decided that she would join us later in the trip.

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Leaving Lowestoft Harbour

We set off at mid-day on 1st May 2007 in bright sunshine. However, we had  the wind on the nose around Force 5 to 6 which made the sea very lumpy.  From my point of view it was a rather unpleasant 24 hours. The baby stay had broken in the evening which limited the amount of sail we could  set. And instead of making for Den Helder, we made for Ijmuiden - mainly because of the wind direction and speed. We fortified ourselves at the  splendid Admirals Bar in the evening - we felt we had earned it!

We left Ijmuiden at 05:00 on May 3rd. At least the wind had moderated a  bit, although it was now N to NE: right on the nose again. The wind  picked up to a Force 6 by the early evening and so we decided to spend  the night at Vlieland. This is a tiny harbour, and must be packed in  summer - it was busy enough for us to have to raft out. The weather the  next day was a very gusty NE force 6, and we decided that, as we had  plenty of time we would stay for the day.

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Vlieland, Netherlands

The 5th May saw us leaving Vlieland heading for Borkum. We had a NNE force 4 and found it rather slow going. By early afternoon we realised that  Borkum was still a long way off. We decided to head for Lauwersoog where we could also top up with fuel. We entered the lock into the  Lauwersmeer at about 17:00 and found the Lauwersmeer to be delightful.  The marina was quite busy, but we found an alongside berth next to the  fuel pump and were assured that we could fill up early the next morning. It was a lovely evening, and we found a very nice restaurant close by.

Refuelling the next morning we found that we only needed 68 litres; we were  pleased to work out that we had been using just 2.75 litres per hour.

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Lauwersoog - picture actually taken by Peter Green and not us! The blue crane  behind the boat makes us look like a rather unwieldly ketch.

We reached Norderney (in the German Frisians) at 17:45 and managed to fill up with water before the heavens opened and it poured with rain.  Another boat came in only some ten minutes after us and they were  soaked.

We left at 06:30 the next morning and for the first time on the trip the  wind was not on the nose - we had a W force 4 but unfortunately the  weather was cold wet and miserable. However, by mid afternoon the sun  was shining and the rest of the day was lovely as we entered the Elbe  Estuary on our way to Cuxhaven. The previous evening we had spoken to  the Harbourmaster at Norderney for advice on the best time to leave so  that we could catch a fair tide to Cuxhaven. He pulled out a thick  volume of tides and times, and told us when we should leave. He was  completely correct: we had the tide with us all the way. Bill told us  that he knew of a small marina in the city, and suggested that we go  there rather than moor in the main marina off the estuary. We had to  wait for a small road bridge to open, and then found a charming marina,  still rather empty, which had a bar attached to it. We also found a  delightful restaurant called the Austernperle on the corner of the  marina. There were perhaps half a dozen tables upstairs overlooking the  marina. The food and service were excellent and we thoroughly enjoyed  ourselves. I would recommend it to anyone visiting Cuxhaven.

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Approaching Cuxhaven - the Kugelbake

City Marina, Cuxhaven

Road bridge leading out of City Marina, Cuxhaven

We had to be up early enough the next morning to make sure we could get  through the road bridge leading out of the marina. We had enjoyed  ourselves rather too much the evening before, so it was a struggle.  However, we made it in time and headed out in to the Elbe Estuary again, this time towards Brunsbuttel, the start of the Kiel Canal (Nord-Ostsee Canal).

The weather wasn’t exactly kind to us...

Next: Cuxhaven to Kiel

 

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